Construction of coat sleeves with inserted extensible gussets



May 31, 1938. G. w. sAwYER CONSTRUCTION OF COAT SLEEVES WITH INSERTED EXTENSIBLE GUSSETS i iled Ma Patented May 31, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT OFF-ICE CONSTRUCTION 01? COAT SLEEVES WITH WSERTED EXTENSIBLE GUSSETS George W. Sawyer, South Portland, Maine Application May 6,1936, Serial N0. 78,111 2 Claims. (01. 2-125) present'invention relates to improvements in the construction of coat sleeves and particularlythatpart of the sleeve where it joins the coat-tube used for thosewh'o require of such 5 a garment that it permit free arm movement.

Many illustrations could be given of recreations or sports where desirable equipment ineluded coats which were invariably possessed of the undesirable characteristic of hindering the free movement of the arms. Of this group, hunting, trap shooting, skeet shooting and golf may well be selected as illustrating that and other factors with the elimination of which my invention is primarily concerned.

In those selected sports or recreations, that is, all types of sport, success is, of course, dependent on a high degree of speed and accuracy in arm movements and factors preventing or hindering that speed and accuracy are problems for which the manufacturer is anxious to find a solution consistent with manufacturing conditions.

Such a problem is present in coats, for the indicated purposes, because any interference with the free movement of the arms is very detrimental. It will be appreciated that such coats must afford the wearer with desired protection and further must be designed to carry heavy loads such as cartridges and game. While most coats have a tendency to interfere with normal movements of the arms, in a sport coat, these problems are intensified by the material used, the load customarily carried, and the extent of arm movement required in various sporting activities, especially shooting. While this problem has long been recognized by others than those whose skill and luck rejoiced in a well accepted alibi, no sleeve construction is available that is satisfactory to the wearer and to the manufacturer.

In accordance with my invention, I solve the problem by inserting extensible material in the sleeve structure, that permits, regardless of the Weight of the load or material used in the construction of the body of the coat free normal movement of the arms. I am able to accomplish this result without sacrificing the strength and appearance of the coat or sleeve and without afiecting more than nominally the cost of production.

In the drawing I have shown an illustrative embodiment of my invention of which Fig. 1 is a fragmentary front view of my novel coat sleeve construction showing my novel sleeve u with extensible gusset.

Fig. 2 is a similar viewof the back of such sleeve and extensible gusset.

Fig. 3 is a similar side view, and" Fig. 4 is a view illustrating the shape of the sleeve insert.

I have indicated at l the body of a coat and while I have not shown the entire construction, it will be understood that its construction is conventional. Such a coat is of strong material that has no tendency to stretch. The coat it- 10 self includes pockets adapted to receive substantial loads such as ammunition and game.

The material used in the sleeve 2 may or may not be the same as that used in the coat body I, but it invariably has the same inextensible qual- 15 ity so that the objectionable binding quality is present whether or not the normal load is present.

The sleeve 2 is formed with particular reference to the specific problem and is formed to 20 present a complete sleeve on the addition of the member F which is of a resilient material that may be readily stretched. In the embodiment of my invention shown in the drawing, the sleeve is formed shorter than the conventional sleeve 25 and meets the edge of the sleeve or arm hole 3 forwardly of the shoulder seam 4 and presents an edge 5 extending rearwardly and downwardly to substantially the bottom of the sleeve or arm hole 3 near which it generally is shaped as at 6. 30

The sleeve 2 is adapted to be directly attached to the edge of the sleeve hole 3 except for that part defined by the edge 5, 6. The rest of the sleeve 2 is indirectly attached through the piece F of knitted or elastic material. 35

A sleeve thus constructed when attached to any style coat permits free movement of the arms as in shooting while the weight of the sleeve 2 is carried by body I.

While the advantages of my sleeve for use on 40 coats for those who hunt and shoot or in other sports where free and unhindered use of the arms is essential will be readily appreciated, I disclose other phases of my invention fully so that all its advantages, as relating to production and man- 45 ufacturing problems, may be equally understood.

While I have mentioned generally the nature of the material used for the member F, that is, an elastic, resilient, stretchable material that may be easily stretched to eliminate binding 50 through the shoulders, I mention specifically elastic rubber webbing and knitted worsted.

As one preferred construction, I use knitted worsted in tubular form, substantially 3% inches wide.v Its length is immaterial for, as indicated in Fig. 4, the material is sliced diagonally into pieces I of desired length (for purposes of illustration 11 inches). These pieces without further cutting or trimming are ready to be shaped, when stitched to the edge 5, 6, and the portion of the edge of the sleeve hole 3 not to receive the sleeve 2 directly, to complete the sleeve structure. The ultimate shape follows generally the lines 8 and 9, the line 8 indicating the upper end and the line 9 indicating the lower edge. When so stitched in place, the insert F is amply protected against ravelling.

It will be understood that I have been specificfor the purpose of permitting my invention to be fully understood and that I do not wish to be considered as having limited myself thereby.

In accordance with my invention, I am able to provide a sleeve, adaptable for use on any style coat which is fully consistent with all requirements including those of commercial production.

What I therefore claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A coat of the character described comprising a body having an armhole, a sleeve of inextensible material secured in said armhole by a line of fastenings extending along the front edge of said armhole from its lowest point to a point forwardly of the top thereof, said sleeve being cut away to present an edge spaced from said armhole commencing at the upper end of said fastenings and extending rearwardly and downwardly to the other end of said fastenings, and an extensible gusset filling said cut-away portion of said sleeve, one edge and both ends of said gusset being secured to the edge of said cut-away portion, and the other edge of said gusset being secured to the edge of said armhole by a line of fastenings.

2. A coat of the character described comprising a body having an armhole, a sleeve of inextensible material secured in said armhole by a line of fastenings extending along the front edge of said armhole from its lowest point to a point forwardly of the top thereof, said sleeve being cut away to present an edge spaced from said armhole and below the top thereof commencing at the upper end of said fastenings and extending rearwardly and downwardly to the other end of said fastenings, and an extensible gusset filling said cut-away portion of said sleeve, one edge and both ends of said gusset being secured to the edge of said cut-away portion, and the other edge of said gusset being secured to the edge of said armhole by a line of fastenings.

GEORGE W. SAWYER. 

